Today we traveled to the north of Jerusalem to two cities that are way off the beaten track for most visitors to this area. But then again, as Fr. Kamal keeps reminding us, we are pilgrims, not tourists, and we are traveling to areas that are spiritually significant to our journey of faith. Our first stop today was to visit the town of Sychar outside the city of Nablus and the Greek Orthodox monastery built over the site of Jacob's well.
Unlike yesterday, when we took our regular bus into Bethlehem, today we transfer from our own bus to a Palestinian bus, identifiable by its white and blue license plate and not the yellow of Israeli vehicles. Our tour operator has done this out of an abundance of caution, since until several years ago the area around Nablus had banned Israeli vehicles from entering. So, at a prearranged spot, our regular driver Jihad dropped us on the side of the highway where we transferred into our Palestinian bus.
As we arrive at our destination, we are greeted by the Orthodox priest who oversaw much of the renovation and restoration of the church and surroundings. After touring the church, we descend the circular stone stairs 15 or 20 feet below ground level to a vaulted room, floored with stone mosaics and decorated in Greek Orthodox style. Looking around the small chamber to the side opposite the stairs, we see it. This is Jacob's Well -- Bir Ya'qub -- where Jesus encountered a Samaritan woman and discussed the spiritual "water" which quenches forever the soul's deepest thirst (John 4:1-42).
Liz Kirkpatrick turns the hand-crank and lowers the bucket into the soft limestone well. The well bottom has varied in depth through the centuries, from 240 feet in A.D. 670 to 67 feet in A.D. 1881. It was "very deep" in Jesus' day (John 4:11). She feeds out the rope to the very end, then begins the arduous task of raising the bucket back to the surface. We were all then invited to drink from two common cups, and some of us filled our water bottles. This well, from which Jesus once asked a drink, is fed by underground springs, and its water is fresh and cool. Because the water is moving and not from a cistern, the ancients called it "living water" -- a term to which Jesus gave a new and special meaning. (Acknowledgement and thanks to edwardfudge.com for picture and basis for narrative.)
After some shopping time at the gift shop, we emerged from the church and sang a stanza of "Fill My Cup:"
Like the woman at the well I was seeking for gifts that do not satisfy. But then I heard my savior speaking, 'Draw from my well that never will run dry.' Fill my cup, Lord. I lift it up, Lord. Come and quench this thirsting of my soul. Bread of Heaven, feed me 'till I want no more; fill my cup, fill me up and make me whole.
We then continued north to the town of Zababde, which, I confess, I had never heard of before planning this trip. Zababde is one of the few communities in which christians constitute a majority of the population, and we were hosted by the Rev. Nael Abu Rahmoun, rector of St. Matthew's church in the town. I was privileged to celebrate the Ascension Day Eucharist and to preach in the church for our group, following which Fr. Nael made a brief presentation about the ministries carried out by St. Matthews. All of us were impressed with the energy and entrepreneurial spirit which Fr. Nael brings to his ministry. Under his leadership, the church has acquired and renovated an adjacent dwelling that now houses a library -- a library which will be the beneficiary of over 50 "early English reader" books brought by our pilgrims. The church, on behalf of the diocese of Jerusalem, also houses the Penman Clinic, named in honor of a former bishop of Australia who helped to inaugurate it. The clinic serves all of the people of Zababde, irrespective of religion, and provides both general and specialized health and dental services. He has also just started an afternoon music program for the children and adults in the town, and they have just started a Sunday choir as well. In addition to these ministries, Fr. Nael also runs a summer camp for several hundred children, again without regard to religion or other limitations. It was energizing and inspiring just to be in his company.And everyone fell in love with his wife and his six-month old daughter.
Lunch was a new treat for all of us -- a Palestinian delight known as Musakhan. It consists of a barbecued chicken quarter on a bed of pine nuts, onions, olive oil and chamomile, with a healthy addition of a tomato salad and yogurt, and all served on a freshly baked taboori (think giant pita bread sprinkled with sumac). It was to die for -- although we all needed to wash up to our elbows when we were done!
Following a tour of the clinic and the library, we bid our farewells to Nael and his family and made our way back toward Jerusalem, stopping along the way in Nablus at a roadside cafe with more shopping opportunities nearby. The cafe is located on the site of a spring, and a number of the tables are actually situated IN the stream so diners can take off their sandals and cool their tired feet in the running water underneath the tables. We have pictures!
Following our return to St. Georges, a number of us took a stroll down to Saladin Street, the Arabic shopping strip, before dinner at the guesthouse. We closed our evening as we do each day with Compline in the cathedral chapel, tonight led by Kirk Baker, John Hinkston's friend (and now the friend of all of us) from Denver.
Early night tonight, for tomorrow we begin at 5:30 a.m. to see sunrise in the desert followed by Holy Eucharist and an hour of meditation time in the desert before breakfast. Shalom, Salaam, and Peace, Don
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